Decorative rats

The history of domestication of rats dates back to the Middle Ages. Jack Black, a rat catcher at the court of Queen Victoria in the middle of the 1906th century, caught gray wild rats Rattus norvegicus (Pasyuk, Norwegian rat) with his bare hands, had extensive experience and kept the captured rats in a special domed cage that he wore instead of a suitcase. In addition to the destruction of pests, Jack Black kept the colored, white or spotted animals that came across to him and bred them, getting fixed and new colors. Decorative rats in Victorian times were as popular as birds. Some ladies kept rats in elegant gilded cages, among them was Queen Victoria (she had one or two rats). Jack also brought rats to train hunting burrowing dogs and, in addition, rat-baiting spread – rats, up to a hundred, and a dog (mostly terriers) were launched into a pit or pen, the time and rates were announced, and then the number of rats killed by the dog was counted . Later, such entertainment bored people, like bull and bear baiting, giving way to dog fights, which today are banned in almost all countries of the world. In 1950, a line of laboratory albino rats was founded in Philadelphia, at that time the first and only one that received its name – the Wistar line, on a geographical basis. The line gave rise to many other laboratory lines of rats (not just albinos) and lasted until 1901. It is believed that from this line, by crossing with gray rats, the first decorative rats were obtained – black hoods. In 1976, the first standards for ornamental rat varieties were established in England. The first all-rat organization in history, The National Fancy Rat Society was established in 1978 in Europe. In America, the first mouse and rat sectioner club appeared in 1983, and in XNUMX the American Fancy Rat and Mouse Association (AFRMA) was founded. Varieties of decorative rats Decorative rats are divided into “varieties” according to certain sets of traits. The term “breed” in relation to ornamental rats is not used or is used as a synonym for the term “variety”. Standards – certain uniform requirements for body type, color, etc. necessary for the evaluation of animals during exhibitions, competitions and shows. Different countries of the world adopt their own standards of requirements and there is no single system for classifying varieties (breeds) of ornamental rats. The most authoritative and oldest standards for ornamental domestic rat varieties are considered to be the standards of the National Decorative Rat Society of Great Britain (NFRS) and the American Decorative Rat and Mouse Association (AFRMA). Decorative rats are divided into several varieties, sections and markings. Some hair coat and color names have been borrowed from cats and dogs (eg Sphynx, Husky, Rex, Manx, etc.).

Body type

• Standard (Standard) – the most common type of rat with a proportional physique and dense smooth hair.
• Tailless (Manx, Tailless) – tailless rats.
• Dumbo (Dumbo) – rats of this species have low-set ears, giving a charming appearance to the rat face.

Wool type

• Standard (Standard) – the most common type of rat with a short, smooth and shiny coat.
• Satin (Satin) – rats with elongated shiny hair. In Russia, they are classified as non-standard.
• Bristle (Bristle Coat) – rats with stiff and coarse outer hair.
• Wavy / Velveteen (Velveteen, Teddy, Wavy) – rats with evenly thick hair, slightly curly, and more often wavy. The coat may appear ruffled due to wavy, but it should not look unkempt, frayed, or uneven.
• Velor (Velour) – the coat of a rat is very short, corrugated, twisted, tightly twisted. In Russia, this group of varieties is classified as non-standardized.
• Curly (Rex) – rats have a dense, short and curly coat, less shiny than the standard, and coarser. The mustache is curly and shorter than usual.
• Double-rex (double-rex, patchwork) – the structure of the coat is combined, in some places bare areas (from sphinxes), in some places – short, curly hair (from rexes). Some fans call this form undressing. In Russia, this group of varieties is classified as non-standard.
• Downy / Fuzz (Fuzz) – rats with a very thin, soft and short down.
• Sphinxes (Hairless) – naked rat, with elastic skin, soft to the touch. There is fluff over the eyes, paws and cheeks. 

Colors of rats

Uniform (self) – the color is uniform throughout the body.

• Black
• Beige
• Platinum
• Blue
• Smoky blue (Powder Blue)
• Russian blue (Russian Blue)
• English mink (Mink)
• American Mink (Mock Mink, American Mink, Havana)
• Russian silver (Russian Silver)
• Ivory
• White with black eyes (Black-eyed White)
• White with red eyes (Pink-eyed White, Albino)

Ticked (ticked) – each hair is painted in several colors along the entire length of the hair.

• Agouti
• Фавн (Fawn, Dark Topaz, Orange)
• Cinnamon (Cinnamon)
• Topaz
• Pearl cinnamon (Cinnamon Pearl)
• Pearl (Pearl)
• Blue Agouti/Opal (Blue Agouti, Opal)
• Russian Blue Agouti
• Platinum Agouti (Platinum Agouti)
• Amber

Combined – a color consisting of several colors.

• Black Eyed Himalayan 
• Siamese with black eyes (Black Eyed Siamese) 
• Himalayan Blue (Blue Point Himalayan)
• Siamese Blue (Blue Point Siamese)
• Burmese
• Himalayan
• Siamese (Mink Point Siamese)
• Siamese Russian Blue (Russian Blue Point Siamese)
• Russian Burmese/Russian Burmese (Russian Burmese) 
• Sable Burmese/Sable Burmese 
• Seal Point Siamese 
• Wheaten Burmese (WheatenBurmese/Agouti Burmese)

Silver – the coat consists of alternating silver-gray and basic, most often white, hairs. Silver can be any of the recognized colors, either solid or ticked. A feature of the colors of this section is the alternation of silver and colored hairs in equal quantities. Each silver hair should be as white as possible, although a colored hair tip is acceptable. Silver colors should give an overall impression of sparkle, brilliance. When interspersed with a few white hairs, the color is not considered silver. Silver must be pronounced so that the silver color cannot be confused with pearl (Pearl) or any uniform (Self).

Color markings

Marking is a pattern, a certain combination of white and colored areas of an animal’s coat. Colors that are a certain combination of white and colored areas are called marked.

• Solid (Self) – color without white pattern or spots.
• European raincoat (European Berkshire) – The body of any color, a white spot on the stomach and chest. Marking borders are even and clear. The hind legs are white up to the ankles, the front legs are half white, and half of the tail is also white. It is desirable to have a small white spot on the head. 
• American cloak (American Berkshire) – The body of any color, the entire lower body: belly, chest, neck, inside of the paws – completely white. White should not go out on the sides. The border between the painted top and the white bottom should be clear and even. The hind legs are white up to the ankles, the front ones up to the elbow. The tail is half white. It is desirable to have a small white spot on the forehead between the ears. 
• Anglo-Irish (English Irish) – Body of any color, white triangle on the chest, white “gloves” on the front legs, feet of the hind legs are half white. The spot does not go on the stomach, it occupies the entire space between the front paws. 
• Irish (Irish) – The body of any color, a white spot on the stomach, white “gloves” on the hind and front legs, a white tip of the tail (up to a quarter of its length). The shape of the spot is as even as possible, round or oval. A spot in the form of a narrow strip (about a centimeter wide) is acceptable. White should not go over the sides, paws or chest.
• Hooded – The dyed hooded portion continuously covers the head, neck, chest and shoulders and ends with a stripe running down the back to the tail, with at least 2/3 of the tail must be dyed. 
• Banded – Neck, chest, belly, flanks and all paws are completely white. The top of the head is painted; the color should not go over the chin. Starting from the head, grabbing the ears, over the shoulders, a colored strip (train) runs along the entire back. The width of the strip is the same throughout and equal to the width of the head. The tail is painted at least 2/3.

Blaze – Wedge-shaped, V-shaped symmetrical white markings on the muzzle, starting from the nose and reaching the forehead.

• Blazed Banded 
• Cloak with blaze (Blazed Berkshire)
• Kepkovy / Capped – The upper part of the head is painted. The spot is no further than the ears and does not go to the chin. It is desirable to have a white spot or wedge on the muzzle (the wedge starts from the neck, narrowing between the ears, ending on the forehead). The rest of the body is white.
• Husky raincoat (Badger husky) – this marking has a “roan” color. The underparts of the body and head are completely white. There is a blaze on the head, and the tail is painted completely.
• Spotted (Varigated) – the head and shoulders are painted, there should be a spot (on the forehead) or a blaze. The remaining parts of the upper body of the rat are white with spots. The lower part of the body is white.

And others. Also, a rat can be odd-eyed. In odd-eyed domestic rats, one eye is red and the other is black or ruby. Odd-eyed rats can be of any type of coloration and markings.

Features of decorative rats

Males weigh 400-850 (rarely) grams, females – 250-500 grams. Males are most often calm, tame lovers to soak up the hands of the owner, females are more active and restless. The average lifespan of rats is 2,5-3 years, sometimes living up to 4 years, the maximum documented lifespan of a domestic rat today is 7 years 4 months. Rats are fertile animals. One female can bring more than 14 pups in one litter. The female can become pregnant even during the period of feeding offspring. In this regard, the joint maintenance of animals of different sexes is highly undesirable. Castration is possible, but is used mainly for medical reasons and to regulate the aggressiveness of males. On average, males become sexually mature at the age of 6 weeks, but females can become pregnant much earlier than this period. To obtain healthy offspring, the first mating of the female is desirable at the age of 5-10 months, the male after a year, when his character is fully formed. AT

The duration of pregnancy in rats is usually 21-24 days. After birth, rat pups should stay with their mother for at least 5 weeks, since at this time immunity is formed and training and socialization take place..

Rats are social, it is desirable to keep them in pairs or groups, in order to avoid constant reproduction, fights and stress – same-sex. They get along best if you take rat pups of the same age, both littermates and from different places, they will be more comfortable and more fun. At first, fights are possible, but usually this is a simple showdown of relationships and hierarchy, they do not cause significant harm to each other, although they drag each other and squeak desperately. Rats living in a group play together, sleep, and conduct mutual grooming.

The maintenance of decorative rats

Cell

A rat’s cage is her house, her personal space where she spends most of her time and life. In a cage, rats sleep, eat, go to the toilet, play, and for each of these activities, the cage must be suitable and properly equipped. The cell must correspond to the number of residents, and be at least 60x40x40, and preferably more. The maximum distance between the bars should not exceed 1,7 cm. For adult males, 2 cm is also allowed, but this really only applies to large, adult males, females and pups can “leak” through the bars. A well-equipped cage should contain houses, hammocks, shelves, ladders or ramps, and, of course, mineral stone, bowls and a drinking bowl. Plastic and fabric tunnels of a suitable diameter, corner toilets, baskets, etc. will not interfere. At the moment, the range of accessories for rat cages is quite wide, and some of the missing things can be “borrowed” from guinea pigs, rabbits, parrots, cats and ferrets, or you can make with your own hands.

Arrangement of the cell and materials

House

The dimensions of the house should be such that the rat can easily stand in it without touching the “ceiling” with its back / head, and can easily stretch out lying down, and all rats should be placed in the house if they want to lie there together. The entrance must be large enough so that the rat does not get stuck in it. For a large number of animals, it is desirable to have two or more entrances in the house. The house can be made of wood or fabric (pluses – environmental friendliness and safety, minuses – absorption of odors and moisture, and easy chewing, especially fabric houses), hard plastic (pluses – does not absorb odors, easy to clean, cons – not very safe when chewing ), plywood (the least convenient: it absorbs odors and moisture, easily gnaws and contains glue, which can be unsafe), and cardboard (requires frequent replacement, about once a week). You can also use stable ceramic ceramic pots, coconut or wicker baskets as a house.  

Hammock

A hanging bed made of fabric, although there are both knitted and wicker options. Hammocks can be bought at pet stores, handmade hammocks can be bought from craftsmen, and they can also be sewn, knitted from thick cotton yarn or quickly made by yourself from unnecessary scraps of fabric or old clothes, the easiest option is a piece of sleeve or pocket cut off from unnecessary clothes.

Hammocks are divided into closed and open: closed hammocks are more or less a “hole” between two layers of fabric and can serve as a shelter for a rat from light or cold, open hammocks are most often one layer of fabric on which a rat can lie. Also, hammocks are divided into light (summer) made of thin fabric and insulated from several layers of fabric. Most rats treat hammocks with love and are ready to stay in them for days on end, while others ignore hammocks. The rat can “decorate” the hammock to its taste, gnawing holes in it in those places where it sees fit.  

Drinker

The water container can be either a regular bowl or special drinkers from a pet store. Bowl: minus – the water in it is very quickly contaminated with food residues from the paws of animals, filler, etc., becoming unsuitable for drinking, and also easily turns over, spoiling the filler and leaving the rat without water. Therefore, you need to change the water in the bowl at least 2 times a day and unscheduled as it gets dirty. Use only heavy ceramic bowls or bowls with rack mounts. Drinker: the use of a drinker eliminates mechanical contamination of the water, but some specimens can “jam” or vice versa, drip continuously, so the rat can also be left without drinking for the whole day. Therefore, it is desirable that there are always at least two drinkers in the cage, and after pouring fresh water into the drinker, you should always check with your finger whether the water is flowing. Most often, ball and nipple drinkers are used, which are attached outside the cage, in order to prevent the rat from gnawing through the water container.

Feeder/bowl

A set of two bowls is usually used: one, larger, for dry food, which is always in the cage, and the second for complementary foods in the form of vegetables / fruits, dairy and protein products.

First of all, the bowls differ in structure and the principle of installation in the cage. Simple bowls are made in the form of a “plate” and are simply placed on a shelf or in a tray, bowls with fasteners are hung on the bars of the cage. For two or three rats, any option will do, but for more, a large stable “plate” is desirable, which the rats can surround from all sides and eat without interfering with each other. Bowls can be metal (pluses – non-gnawing, easy to clean, does not absorb odors, cons – easy to turn over and move, rattles), metal bowls are desirable hinged. Bowls made of rigid plastic (pluses – easy to clean, practically does not absorb odors, minuses – chewable, light). Ceramic or thick glass bowls are the best option for “dish” bowls, as bowls made of these materials are heavy and stable, they cannot be turned over. 

Restroom

Rats may well learn to go to the rodent tray, but individually, since there are principled cleaners, and there are sloppy rats, some may ignore the tray altogether or use it for other purposes – as a couch or a storehouse for supplies. If the rat is clean and goes to the toilet in one corner, you can install a tray there. It can be either a special corner tray for rodents, rabbits or ferrets, or a food container without a lid.

entertainment items

So that the rat does not get bored, you can put ropes, ladders, ramps, tunnels made of plastic and cardboard, wooden toys for rodents and parrots, a running wheel into the cage (necessarily solid and large diameter, to avoid injury).

Cage filler

Cage litter helps keep rats clean as they absorbs waste products and to a certain extent neutralizes unpleasant odors, protects the paws, bellies and tails of rats from the effects of waste.

• Vegetable fillers: hay, corn
• Paper fillers and bedding: cellulose, paper napkins/towels;
• Disposable diapers

Wood litter for rats

Sawdust is still the most common filler. However, most often they are made from coniferous trees, and many rats react to needles in the form of irritation and inflammation of the mucous membranes of the upper respiratory tract, as well as the lungs. In addition, sawdust can be extremely fine and dusty, further irritating the mucous membranes of the nose and eyes. At the same time, large soft sawdust from non-coniferous wood can become a good filler if there is a false bottom in the cage: rats cannot reach the sawdust, the sawdust in response does not generate dust and does not get into the nose and eyes. In all other cases, the use of sawdust as a filler for rats is not recommended. Compared to small sawdust, shavings win in one thing: it is larger, therefore it does not dust and does not clog into the nose and eyes. Large non-dusty chips from non-coniferous (deciduous) wood species can be used both under a false bottom and simply poured into a pallet or trays. This is far from the best option, but it has the right to exist if the rats do not react to the presence of chips with sneezing and a runny nose. Coniferous, dusty and small chips are not recommended to be used as a filler.

Pressed wood filler on the market is represented by granules or pellets. Pellets remain a very popular type of filler, they retain moisture and smell better than sawdust, but they rattle, dust, and fall apart into fine dust when completely wet. Pressed wood filler is convenient if there is a false bottom in the cage, in all other cases it is not recommended for use, as it is inconvenient for rats when moving, it can be very traumatic for the skin of the legs and can cause pododermatitis, and in the form of dust it can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and rat eye. Coniferous granules and pellets are not recommended to be used as a filler.

Wood chips are currently a good alternative to all other types of filler. Please note that in pet stores it is sold as a filler for terrariums and at a relatively high price. You can also find it without any problems in hardware stores under the name “chips for smoking”. Wood chips do not dust and do not irritate the mucous membranes, provided that a hardwood product is used. Injury for rat paws is also within the acceptable range, however, for elderly, sick, too heavy rats or rats with a predisposition to pododermatitis, it is still not worth using this type of filler without a false bottom. For all other rats, the filler is suitable both for falling asleep in trays and a pallet, and under a false bottom. Coniferous wood chips are definitely not recommended.

Vegetable fillers for rats

Hay for use as litter for rats is not recommended. Due to the elasticity of individual blades of grass and uneven structure, it can be traumatic for the eyes of mobile animals, in addition, it does not retain odor and moisture, and in many cases it is so dusty that with prolonged contact it can cause a reaction in the form of inflammation and swelling of the mucous membranes, sneezing. In addition, the eggs of parasites brought with the feces and urine of field animals may well be in the hay. If desired, taking into account all the risks, hay can be used for walking, giving it to rats for building “nests”. There is no need for eating dry grass in rats.

Corn filler consists of crushed corn cores and comes in three types – fine fraction, coarse fraction and granules. This type of filler is currently perhaps the most popular among rat breeders. Unfortunately, corn filler has a number of disadvantages: it is quite noisy; in rats with a large weight or a tendency to pododermatitis, it can lead to injuries and inflammation of the skin of the feet; it is difficult for them to move on such an unstable surface, can be painful when stepped on, and some rats try to avoid it for this reason. At the same time, it does not have a negative effect on the respiratory system and mucous membranes, so rats with chronic respiratory infections are often transferred to it, it retains odors and moisture well, and corn filler is completely safe to eat.

Paper fillers for rats

Office paper as a filler for rats is not suitable. The decisive disadvantages are sharp edges, which can leave quite serious cuts, and poor containment of odors and moisture. However, paper torn (not cut!) into long strips may be to the taste of rats for building nests and as an interesting activity on the paddock.

Newspapers, magazines and other printed materials should also not be used in the cage, as in the manufacture and application of printing inks, among other things, drying oils, phenols, formaldehyde, petroleum oils, synthetic resins, metal salts (cobalt, manganese, aluminum, iron, etc.) * are used. These substances or their traces are theoretically capable of harming the health of rats due to chronic intoxication, i.e. with regular and direct contact. With freshly printed products and products published before the end of the 90s, it is better to exclude any contact: in the first case, due to the evaporation of printing ink, in the second, due to the use of lead salts in old pigments. In addition, newspapers and magazines are not able to absorb and retain moisture and odors sufficiently.

Cellulose litter is only suitable for a small number of rats or for a second layer on top of granular litters, as In terms of retaining the smell, it is not up to par. The advantages of this type of filler include the fact that it does not rattle, rats like it, and does not injure the feet.

Paper napkins or towels are good for use in the cage, but they are not a substitute for litter, at least not on a permanent basis and for those rats who like to chew on paper and drag it to their house or create “nests”. Napkins and towels have rather poor odor/moisture retention and are easily “destroyed” by rats, so they need to be changed at least 2 times a day. But at the same time they are hypoallergenic, ideal for use as bedding in houses, well suited for rats with respiratory diseases, sensitive mucous membranes, pododermatitis, they can be used in a cage with nursing rats. You can use only napkins and towels without a pattern and dyes.

Inorganic fillers

Disposable diapers absorb and retain odors/moisture very well and are especially suitable for elderly, sick and debilitated rats, allowing them to be kept in hygienic conditions while keeping the cage clean and dry. You can fix the diapers both on the shelves and directly in the pallet using masking tape or other devices. Please note that only non-biting rats should be placed in diapers, and only if they have no desire to tear the bedding apart. 

Rat food

Rats are omnivorous rodents, so their diet should include grain, vegetable, protein, and sour-milk products.

• Rat food

The basis of nutrition should always be special food for rats, which can be bought at a pet store. Complete food with a balanced composition and quality ingredients. In the first place in the composition of such feed is always grain (wheat), animal protein is always present in the feed and the fat content does not exceed 10%. This is the first indication that the manufacturer has taken into account the basic needs of rats. Average quality feeds may not include animal proteins (which is not critical), contain an increased amount of cheaper grains (rye, oats, barley, millet), be too poor, fatty, high-calorie, etc. Such feeds are also suitable for feeding rats, but they you have to supplement and balance: mix fatty food with grain, add wheat to food with a high content of oats, diversify food with too poor composition, add protein to food without animal protein yourself.

Rats should always have a bowl of food. In rats prone to fullness, a variant of “dosed nutrition” is possible, i.e. the bowl is filled once a day, based on the fact that the average daily intake of an adult rat is a tablespoon of food. Rats can not be limited in food until six months.

• Protein supplements

The source of animal protein for rats can be boiled lean meat, poultry, fish and seafood, chicken or quail eggs, meat baby food, zofobas, crickets, mealworm, locust, gammarus, dry dog ​​or cat food of at least super premium class.

Animal protein is given to rats about 1-2 times a week. For rat pups up to six months, the amount of animal protein can be increased several times compared to adult animals and given several times a week. Important: the younger the rat, the more animal protein its body needs for normal development.

• Vegetable top dressing

Vegetables and herbs contain a large amount of vitamins and minerals. In addition, these products have a low calorie content, which has a beneficial effect on the “figure” of rats. But most fruits and berries contain a large amount of sugars, so they should be much less in the rat’s diet than vegetables and greens. This is especially true for rats prone to obesity. Please note that the vegetable type of complementary food is only an addition, and not the main part of the rat’s diet. The predominance of succulent feed can lead to diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and a general deterioration in both the well-being and health of the animal.

Vegetables, fruits, herbs, berries should be given every day or every other day. There is no unambiguous “daily rate”, because. for each animal, this norm will be individual. On average, 10-15 grams of vegetables / fruits per rat per day is the amount after which there should definitely be no problems.

• Fermented milk supplements

The benefits of fermented milk products such as cottage cheese, yogurt or kefir: they are an ideal source of calcium, and also contain lacto- and bifidobacteria that are beneficial for the intestines. In addition, rats eat them with great pleasure. The only “contraindication” to the introduction of sour milk into the diet of rats is individual lactose intolerance, which occurs quite often in rats, and is expressed in intestinal upset, up to diarrhea (therefore, when introducing a new product into the diet of rats, it is always worth checking the reaction of her body to it by feeding a small amount to start).

• Treats

Delicacies can be very different: purchased and home-made, vegetable and animal origin, simple and difficult to prepare or do not require cooking at all. Depending on the type of treat, there are contraindications and consumption rates. First of all, you need to consider that feeding rats with treats is not worth it, this can lead to health problems: obesity, changes in metabolism and hormonal levels, food refusal and, as a result, deterioration of the rat’s gastrointestinal tract. 

What you can and cannot feed rats

• One can

Buckwheat, millet, rye, barley, peaches, apricots, strawberries, bananas, blueberries, rose hips, apples, raspberries, cranberries, red ashberries, grapes, watermelon, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, pumpkin, zucchini, zucchini, boiled lean meat, poultry, fish, seafood, eggs, gammarus, zofobas, yogurt, kefir, low-fat cottage cheese, unsalted crackers.

• It is possible in limited quantities and in the absence of intolerance: 

Corn, oats, wheat, pears, pomegranate, plums, kiwi, tangerines, bell peppers, tomatoes, beets, peanuts, walnuts, acorns, cashews, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, coconut, hazelnuts, milk, baked goods, unsweetened cookies.

• Must not

Beans, millet, cabbage, radishes, radishes, turnips, beans, hot peppers, peppercorns, onions, garlic, sausages, sausages, bacon, fruit bones, salted and pickled foods, condensed milk, sour cream, fatty cheese, sweets, jam, chips , sugar, alcohol, pastries, spicy dishes, spicy, salty, fatty, fried, smoked, spoiled and moldy foods, rotten fruits and vegetables.

Mineral feed

Mineral stone is a source of necessary building material for bones and teeth, and also serves to maintain their strength. In addition, the minerals that make up the stone are involved in the metabolic process, control the water and acid-base balance in the body. In addition to the obvious health benefits, mineral stone is also useful due to its attractiveness as an object of gnawing. First of all, there should be no salt in the stone. If the stone is salt / salt, then you should not take it. Table salt is suitable for feeding exclusively herbivores (guinea pigs, rabbits). If the package says “mineral salt stone” or “mineral supplements”, look at the ingredients that are usually listed on the package. If there is no salt in the composition, then the stone is suitable for rats. If salt is indicated (sodium chloride, edible salt, table salt) or the composition is generally indicated on the package, it is better to look for a stone that definitely does not have these ingredients. Sepia (cuttlefish shell) is a great alternative to mineral stone. It is necessary to choose real sepia, and not its imitation, since imitated sepia may contain salt and substances that are not useful for the rat. Ordinary white school chalk is highly undesirable for rats (and other animals) to consume, school chalk contains additives that can harm rats or simply do not carry any benefit, for example, a very large amount of gypsum and glue.

Rat Care

Care of hair

The rat takes care of its hair itself, often very carefully. And if she lives in a group, which is desirable, then she is helped to do this – this is called mutual grooming and serves to strengthen social bonds between members of the same flock. If the rat is healthy and takes care of itself, then you don’t need to help her with hair care, she can handle it herself. Problems usually occur in weakened, old animals, which are difficult to reach, for example, to the back) and in this case they will need your help.

Grooming a rat with the least stress and intervention consists of two parts:

Combing wool. A new, unused toothbrush with soft bristles works best for this. It is most convenient to remove the long handle (because rats do not like the strange tool with a long handle and they often attack a “full” toothbrush) and scratch the rat, holding the head of the toothbrush with thumb and forefinger (i.e., as if hiding between her fingers). It is not necessary to wash the rat, washing is an extreme measure if it gets dirty in something very sticky, poorly washed or harmful and dangerous. Washing is done with warm water and shampoo for rodents, after washing, wipe thoroughly with a towel and allow to dry, avoiding cold air and drafts, rats catch a cold very easily.

Cleaning the tail

There are only two reasons why you should subject a rat to a tail cleaning procedure:

1. The upcoming exhibition, where a rat with a beautiful and clean tail can get a higher rating.
2. Hot weather. Heat exchange in rats occurs precisely through the tail, which is not covered with hair. If it is heavily soiled, heat transfer will be difficult, which can harm the rat (overheating).

How to do it right:

For washing, you will need a soft toothbrush, rodent shampoo, and warm water. First, the tail needs to be “soaked” in soapy water. If the rat takes it calmly – the tail can simply be immersed in a container of water, if not – it is worth slowly soaking it, wiping it with a soapy wet cotton pad. Take a toothbrush and gently, without strong pressure, clean the tail in the direction from the base to the tip, i.e. in the direction of growth of scales, in no case do not mind! You can not rub the tail with force – you can damage and tear off the scales. When cleaning, do not hold the rat by the tip of the tail! The brushed tail is thoroughly rinsed with clean water and dried with a towel. If the rat’s tail is very dirty, don’t try to wash it all at once – it still won’t work, you’ll only injure it if you try too hard when cleaning. Just repeat the procedure in a day or two, and gradually the tail will be washed off. It is worth remembering that the degree of pollution of the tail is closely related to the conditions of detention. In a small, neglected cage, where there is rarely cleaning, the tails of rats get dirty much faster.

Ear and eye care, nail clipping

Usually, cleaning is not required, except that you can wipe the muzzle with a damp cotton pad, provided that the rat does not wash itself, as is the case with older rats. Sometimes inspect for timely assistance in the event of a disease. Rats usually self-groom and monitor the length and sharpness of the claws, and special additional care is not required. Although, in some cases, a neat trimming with a nail cutter is possible:

1. The lack of self-maintenance of the claws in the proper form, this happens in elderly or sick rats.
2. After surgery or when combing, so as not to further injure damaged skin.
3. When new animals are introduced, in order to deprive the “owners” of the cage of the opportunity to scratch heavily when establishing the place of the newcomer in this cage.

Dental Care

From time to time, you need to inspect the teeth and mouth of the rat for injuries, diseases and overgrowth of teeth and take timely measures to eliminate problems.

Rats and other animals

Rats should be kept in the same cage exclusively with other rats. But they can communicate outside the cage under supervision with other pets:

• Rats and dogs

They can communicate well with each other if the dog does not see the prey in the rat and is not afraid of it. Rats can communicate with friendly dogs under the supervision of the owner, who will control their communication, and you also need to introduce them carefully. A rat, in case of fright or protection, can bite the dog painfully, provoking a reciprocal bite of the dog. It is necessary to carefully monitor their communication and not leave them alone.

• Rats and cats

It happens that rats and cats can coexist and communicate in a peaceful way, eat, sleep and play together, sometimes they just keep neutrality, not approaching each other. But more often than not, cats are a danger to rats, the movements and smell of a rat awaken hunting instincts in cats, from simple play to a serious attack. The rat cage should be located in a place inaccessible to cats, and if this is not possible, it should be firmly fixed so that watching curious cats do not drop it, even climbing onto the cage.

• Rats and rabbits, guinea pigs

You can observe a relatively friendly relationship when meeting on the run. Although, due to the individual characteristics of the nature of any animal, both parties can be injured, so communication must be supervised.

• Rats and small rodents – mice, hamsters, gerbils and others.

Their communication poses a danger to a smaller rodent, a rat is more likely to attack and cause significant damage, even death. There are exceptions, very rarely, in the case of living together from an early age, the animals are able to treat each other friendly, but this really rarely happens, and there is no guarantee that the rat will not cause harm in the event of a conflict.

• Rats and birds

For small birds (small and medium parrots, finches, canaries, goldfinches), rats are most often treated as prey. Large birds (large parrots, corvids) can themselves very seriously harm the rat.

• Rats and ferrets, snakes, large lizards, aquatic turtles, owls

Dangerous to rats, will perceive the rat as prey, can cause serious injury and even death.

• Rats and tortoises

Very rarely they can communicate in a friendly way, most often communication will end with biting by a turtle rat, if it is a land rat. Aquatic turtles, being predators, can harm the rat themselves.

• Rats and invertebrates, molluscs

The rat perceives mollusks, insects as prey, and, at least, can try on the tooth. Poisonous invertebrates can harm the rat itself, either as a result of a bite from a rat, a nod, for example, or a bite from a rat by a spider or scorpion. In any case, the communication of a rat with any other kind of pet, even if you are sure of the safety of this relationship, should be supervised, and without leaving the rat and other pet alone. * materials used by Alena Kocheshkova (runa)

Walking and playing with rats

Wild rats live in sheltered burrows or other types of hiding places and search for food in a nearby range. This dual structure of the living space largely determines the instincts of ornamental rats and influences their behavior. Therefore, the need of rats for a daily walk is, on the one hand, a behavioral factor that decorative rats inherited from their wild ancestors, on the other hand, a physical need for movement, which is completely impossible in cage conditions, and a psychological need for new impressions and emotions. While the cage is a sheltered haven for rats, walking adds variety to the rat’s life – it’s their permanent habitat, where they can learn new things, frolic, play and fully communicate with the owner. To make the walking area attractive and useful for rats, you need to organize it accordingly. For this, the following things and objects are suitable:

• Plaid or bedspread
• Boxes, tunnels, pillows, cat houses and toys, napkins, wooden blocks, balls, large branches for climbing and nibbling
• Educational toys (for example, for cats and dogs, for extracting treats from them)
• Crumpled and thrown oversized fabric

The place for walking can be on the sofa or bed and on the floor. Walking should be carried out exclusively under the supervision of the owner, in order to avoid gnawed wires, books, escape of rats, and injuries to rats or other pets. In the process of walking, the rat can play with toys, run through labyrinths of boxes and rags, meet other friendly pets, look for hidden treats, and communicate with the owner. An example of outdoor entertainment: a tray with water, stones and green peas, which is supposed to be caught and eaten. Makeshift tunnel Photo by Alena Kocheshkova (runa)

rat training

In the case of rats (like cats), training is more of a positive reinforcement learning. Such activities with a rat will help establish a more trusting relationship.

For a reward, you can use a variety of treats that the rat loves and rarely gets. There is no point in punishing rats, the rat will get scared, lose confidence and will no longer make contact.

Rats are able to remember and execute many commands: bring small things in their hands or put them in a basket / cup, roll cardboard rolls and carts, run rat agility, climb ropes, jump from pedestal to pedestal and onto hands, untie shoelaces, give a paw, roll over and much more. You can use a clicker, create a miniature obstacle course, use improvised objects and toys for dogs and cats. The rat is a great friend, quick-witted interesting companion and pet!